Well since my last post Christmas has come and gone. I did not accomplish much during the week leading up to Christmas... OK so shoot me!

However the progress that was made last week was a lot of tweaking and fine tuning of the stringer/hull bottom fit. Done a couple hours at a time here and there.

Having got that pretty darn close today I decided to finally lock up the stringer / transom connection.

One of my main problems was being able to lift the stringers up out of the transom in order to cut them off, cut the limbers and paint up the edges that would be inside the transom. To overcome this I made up a support made of a vertical 2x4 screwed to a piece of 2x6 cut to fit the underside of the hull bottom.

Once that was done I then cut some scrap 1x6 material and used it to hold up one side of the hull at a time forward at the horse as I removed that stringer to be worked on.

While the stringer was out I made the necessary cuts, did a little more shaping of the tip (bow end) then painted it up with epoxy. NOTE.... before you lift the bottom off the transom/stringers make any last marks needed to plane your stringer tips. I realized this after I did all this prep work then dropped the hull bottom back down, made the marks and raised it all up again. It is so much easier to do your planing with the stringer down flat. You can then fine tune again once the gross shaving has been done.

Once stringers were cut and everything was back up in the air I then pasted up the transom slots (one at a time) with thick epoxy/microfibers/cabosil and set the stringer back into the slot. Once the stringer was in place and skidded back and forth until just right I filleted the joint.

Another note to new builders. Be sure you go back and recheck your fillets every 30 minutes or so for a couple hours. Even though I have learned to make the paste quite thick (thicker than you think because the wet epoxy in the joint will thin it out) they will still sag for a couple hours. Pushing them back in place with your modified putty knife (per Renn's instructions in the book) is necessary to keep the fillet full thickness and not later create a lot of sanding of sagged epoxy that is no longer in place adding strength to your joint.


Oh yeah.. how long your fillet will sag has to do with which resin hardener you are using. I am now using medium. In my 70- degree garage it takes a couple hours to set up hard. When I was using fast hardener it would have taken only 30 minutes. BUT I found I was wasting epoxy in the container because I could not always get it in place before it had set too much to use. Just an FYI for you to consider.

Dec 28, 2005

Set hull bottom on frame.

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